Some old work and random bits.
In deciding what my next photogrammetry project would be, I remembered the 1863 (I may be wrong on the year) Remington Navy cap and ball revolver that I found in my Grandmother's basement as a child. My Uncle Frank had procured it as payment for mowing grass back in the 40s, and has sat in a box in one place or another for decades. It's in poor condition in terms of finish and the locking mechanism on the hammer is broken. Furthermore the base pin handle has broken off, and the tab that keeps the charging handle against the barrel is missing.
My goal is to scan and clean up and essentially do a digital restoration of the subject, replacing the missing components, removing corrosion (and the results of my pre-adolescent rust removal that destroyed any original finish), such that it looks like it may have when in service.
This digital restoration will then be skewed to both a real-time model and a printed and finished display piece. Both lend challenges. Removing the corrosion and adding a smooth blued finish, without destroying the scanned detail and avoiding extensive remodeling may not be easy. Printing the high rez mesh shouldn't be to challenging, but painting and finishing with the hopes of simulating blued steel, brass, and wood, may very well be.
I have dissembled the revolver and am formatting how to support it and it's separate components within my light tent.
I'll update as time goes along. This promises to be a fun project, and the idea that this relic that has meant so much to me over the years may carry on within my chosen art form, is a thrilling prospect.
I have the revolver more or less disassembled. Were this a working relic, I would have likely opted to have a gunsmith do the disassembly, but for better or for worse it appears it has likely been disassembled and reassembled many time over it's lifetime, and was rendered inoperable a long time ago. In fact, the hammer was secured to the frame, via the tip of a cut off nail. I have to wonder if that was the work of my late Uncle. Prior to his ownership, I know nothing of the relic.
I have one more step in the disassembly, and that is removing the cylinder from the frame. The pin (technically speaking the base pin) that holds the cylinder within the frame, has not only lost it's handle that helps to facilitate removal, the remainder of the pin has frozen within the cylinder. A healthy dose of PB spray hasn't loosened it a bit and no amount of hammer and punch have elicited a modicum of movement. As soon as I finish this update, I am headed to the hardware store to buy some Kroil for the frame to soak in for a week or so. This is a bit of a setback, but I can at least start photographing the parts I have already removed. The worst case with the cylinder is that I leave it in the frame, however that would make separating the components, along with repair and clean-up in their digital state, a bit of a headache. Wish me luck.
I received my poison bottle from Shapeways a month or so ago.
The green wasn't nearly as green as their website purported, but otherwise I'm really excited about the results. The glazing process obscures the detail a bit, but it still looks pretty cool.
The cork was in colored sandstone (which incorporated a texture map) turned out awesome. It really looks like a cork!
A little Photoshop fun, to boot...
Time for some catch up. Family, work and freelance have kept me pretty busy...
Anyhow, here's one of my latest projects. It's a stylus holder that fits over the base of the OEM holder that comes with Wacom tablets. It was sculpted in Zbrush and printed on a friend's Form 1 3D printer.
It was painted with airbrushed acrylics and an oil paint wash. I finished with a mineral sprit based varnish, wich turned out really nice.
When I get my act together perhaps I'll do a post on my process.
I've decided to try my hand at selling some models on Shapeways. I used a demo of Modo to model the bottle, with Zbrush for the skull, details and scaled .SLT export. I'm new to Modo, but have to say I am really liking it. I think I'll pick up a license the next time it goes on sale.
I'll post a follow-up once my test print arrives, with perhaps a quick posting on my process.
Children of the 70s and 80s, remember these?
A year or so ago my wife sent me a link to an instructable, by the very cool Fred Murphy, about 3D printing your own Fisher Price record player records. Fast forward to a month before her birthday this year, and my stroke of genius; 3D print my wife a Fisher Price record of the song (The Book of Love, by the Magnetic Fields) played when she took the forever walk, at our wedding. Not only would this be a kick-ass gift, but perhaps a way to show my lovely wife that my owning a 3D printer isn't that crazy after all.
The pictured player is a vintage model that my wife bough off of Ebay. We wanted one for our son but found out that the new versions use a chip/speaker combo, instead of the old-school music box technology. Boo!
I won't bore you with the the details of how I made the record as it's pretty well laid out in the instructable. However I will regale you with the results.
It took two prints to get it right. Well, sort of right. The 1st print was 3mm thick and not scaled to compensate for the very small percentage of shrinkage inherent in ABS FDM prints. It did not play at all. The second print was 5mm thick, which pushed the play surface up a bit to facilitate contact with the pins in the player's arm, and was scaled up around 3% to compensate for shrinkage.
Enough bullshit Lee! Did it play?! Well, kinda. Despite my scaling of the source model, there seems to be a bit of an issue with the grooves corresponding properly with the music box style pins in the player's arm. Long story short, one can get a relatively recognizable tune out of the record by holding the arm down and pushing the record while playing, in sort of a slow motion DJ technique.
In the end, however this was the favorite among my birthday gifts to my wife. Just between you and me, I think she's starting to see the light. :)
This is rather late in coming. The holidays, a cold and a new job have taken most of my focus.
So yeah, the model came together rather well, if I do say so. Some of my simulated wear could be better and I need to do some paint touch-up but otherwise I've got a kick out of the finished product.
A few cool things came together at the end.
- I printed out templates of the grip geo in order to cut out some grip tape overlays. I think it contrasts nicely with the frame and lends some realism, as I know grip-tape is a favorite among special forces operatives, swat, gun-nuts, etc.
- I experimented with Krylon grip spray on the frame, in hopes of creating the pebbled/grippy surface one might find on the plastic composite frame with many modern handguns. It's hard to tell from my crappy pic but the effect was somewhat of a success. It indeed looks textured, though I would have liked for it to have been a bit bumpier. Word to the wise, spray the texture spray 1st, as I had problems with the paint crazing after applying the grip spray over the dried brown paint. If one MUST spray the grip over the paint, make sure you have the model fully primed. The only places that crazed were where the primer had been sanded away prior to painting. I guess the smart thing to do, in the end, is just make damn sure your model is fully primed.
- I felt that weight would lend a sense of realism to the model when it was picked up so I filled the slide with about 10 ounces of lead weights. I also glued in 10 or so ounces of carriage bolts into the frame. It gives the model a good heft.
- One thing I'm rather proud about is the fact that the sights actually line up. Furthermore the glow in the dark 'inserts' (drilled and filled with glow paint) look pretty cool.
To sorta step back in the process a bit; I want to mention a step I'm really glad I took. I had a general idea as to how big the print should be, but I wasn't exactly sure. In computer games, objects can usually be scaled after the fact. However, clearly with printing, that is not the case. So I took a orthographic screenshot and pasted it into Photoshop, where using the rulers I came up with the best size. First one was too big, the second two small, the last nice and bracketed in between. I'll spare you the embarrasing pictures of me holding the cut-outs, looking for the size, that felt, as well as looked correct.
I call this the 'count on your fingers' approach. I'm sure there are some 3D modeling/printing ninjas out there that could skip this step, but like I've said before; fine tuning real world scaling is tricky (for me at least.)
A handful of things to do differently next time:
- I need to incorporate more tab and slot arrangements for the various components. The safety switches in particular merely lay on the side of the slide and have already popped off. I may end up pinning them, but having that already incorporated into the model would help a lot.
- Improve the quality of the print. I'm not sure why I got the artifacts I did on the frame and slide, but they certainly made my job harder.
- I need to come up with a better way of simulating the wear of the finish that exposes the underlying metal. I found that in some spots, I accidentally wore down to the grey primer, missing the metallic paint all together. It could just be dialing back my sanding, but I'm going to explore other methods.
- Grip spray crazes paint!!
- I attempted to glue the slide to the frame with 5 minute epoxy. I love 5 minute epoxy (hence the name of the blog), but in this case I didn't get a good bond. I ended up using Aves Apoxie Sculpt for a more mechanical bond, to great effect. Unfortunately, if one looks real close between the slide and the frame you can still see a little shiny epoxy.
In the end, I had a lot of fun working on this model. I learned a few lessons and have been bolstered by the results. I've got an idea or two for some ray guns/blasters, but I think for my next project I'm going to do something a little less weapony. I hope to start posting that project within the next week or so. Thanks for tuning in!
I've woken up from a night of crazy-assed fever induced dreams and simultaneous sweat and chills, to be a new man.
So quick and dirty; here is the cap with the diffuser lens(es) installed. Again, I used three pieces of translucent plastic cut from a Chinese take-out soup container. 3 pieces seemed to be enough to give me the diffusion I wanted. I took their collective thickness into the equation when I made my reference model. However I seemed to have been a bit off some as the cap doesn't fit as snugly as w/o the lenses. I'm sure the fact that I cut out the lenses by hand, doesn't help. Next time I would opt for translucent acrylic cut on a laser cutter. But damned if real-world fit and tolerances ain't hard!
When it comes down to it though, mission accomplished in that the beam is indeed diffused. Oh, and the 'anti-roll' feature on the bezel does it's job too! Here's a shot of the beams with and without the diffuser. My iPhone adjusted a bit for exposure between the two, but you get the point.
The only task left to (hopefully) ensure toddler resistance, is to white glue the threads on the flashlight head. My son has a tendency to unscrew it (thus exposing the bulb), and Loc-Tite just didn't cut it.
I really like flashlights, namely of the relatively small, high intensity LED variety. I have a small collection of two Surefires and more recently a Fenix PD35. At 860 max lumens, this thing is a pocket sized spotlight!
Well this love for flashlights must be hereditary, as my two year old would run off with any flashlight left within reach. We put a stop to that right off the bat and now keep my lights out of toddler territory. Even my dimmest light (60 lumens) is too bright for a two year old (or anyone for that matter) to stare into, as he is apt to do.
So hey, bright idea (heh), let's get the kid a flashlight for Christmas. Well a quick look at flashlights marketed for kids showed a bunch of crap, destined for a land fill. Dim, poorly constructed and generally not long for this world. So we decided to forgo them all together and get him a 'real' flashlight.
However, even at 14 lumens, I thought that perhaps it could be a little dimmer. Thus I decided to design and print a cap to mount to the head of the flashlight. This cap would serve to hold a translucent lens and hopefully dim the beam down a bit. Why, do this when one could easily remove the existing clear lens, sand or steel wool the back of it and VOILA have a diffused beam? The challenge to actually build something functional, maybe? Or perhaps it's along the lines of that old adage 'buy a hammer and everything starts to look like a nail.' Whatever, I knew it would be fun to try, and it has been.
So, first off I got a digital scan of the flashlight head, courtesy of the good Scott Janousek.
I took this scan and threw it into 3DS Max, where with the help of the actual item and a micrometer, I built a correctly (hopefully) scaled, symmetrical reference model.
Once I had the reference model (with fingers crossed that I got the measurements right) I imported it into Zbrush. There I modeled the two part cap.
While I was at it, I also incorporated an 'anti roll' bezel for the heck of it. Not a CAD model by any stretch of the imagination, but it ended up pretty clean nonetheless. Zbrush's Dynamesh subtract can (when behaving properly) can give some satisfying results.
The model loaded to the Uprint without a hitch and printed nicely. As of this writing it is sitting in an alkali bath having it's support material dissolved away. Unfortunately, as I was in a hurry, I didn't take the opportunity to photograph the parts, hot from the machine. That said, I will be sure to post the final product. Fingers crossed!
I've got some catch-up to do on my latest work, so here's an all-in-one account of how this knife came together.
The source file is from a 3D model I made in February of this year. It was built using 3DS Max and Zbrush. I took the high rez model and with a few tweaks, output it to 3 separate .STL files. You'll notice on the final print that the hand guard got turned around to face forward as I realized it made more sense that way.
Being new to 3D printing it took me a while to get my .STL correct. Holes, flipped faces and other errors in the geo that might not show up in a render can stop a print before it even happens. Fortuantely I had the forethought to bring my source files and a laptop to the Asylum with me on set-up day and was able to massage the files into shape..
I just about jumped out of my skin when the print came out of the machine. It was amazing to see my work, previously digital and untouchable, to now an object I can actually hold. Hot (literally) out of the machine:
Prior to painting, I pinned and expoxied the three parts (blade, guard, and handle) together. Should I have painted them 1st and then glued them together? Good question. It's a toss-up. Anyway...
It was pretty obvious that I was going to need to do some sanding, filling or something. Someone on the LinkedIn 3D Printing Guild forum recommended using high-build primer filler. I couldn't find it locally so I picked up some Rust-Oleum Filler-Primer from Amazon. Where has this stuff been all my life? It's great! Using it as well as some progressively finer sanding, I was able to get rid of the print lines. Or at least those you can readily see.
Let the painting begin. At this point my hands were full so I didn't get a lot of pictures. My process in a nutshell: After filling, priming and sanding, I painted the blade 1st, using Krylon Fushion 'Metalic Shimmer'. Afterwards I masked off the painted blade and painted the guard and the pommel with Fusion 'hammered finsih'. I can't say it looked very hammered, but it was darker than the blade and created enough contrast that I was happy.
Once, I had the main components painted, I wrapped a strip of vinyl faux leather around the handle, adhering it with some 3M spray adhesive. Incidentally, the strip was from some scrap given to me by the nice people at Broadway Upholstery. Many thanks to them! The vinyl looked great, but just wouldn't conform to the handles shape due to a woven fabric backing. I found however that a short soak in some denatured alcohol (the vinyl, not me) allowed that backing to be peeled off.
Once I had the handle wrapped I commenced to applying a dark brown acrylic wash to the entire knife. A few wipes and reapplications of wash and I had a fairly used looking knife. I followed up with a mixture of gloss and matt sealers. FYI the vinyl didn't take too well to the sealer and has stayed a little sticky, though not enough to leave any residue on your hand.
So far, people have reacted pretty positively towards the finished piece. While it was originally designed as a Lord of the Rings-ish knife, more than one person as said it looks like something a pirate would carry. I can live with that.
The two 'final shots' I have are ok, but I hope to post some glamour shots in the near future.
Overall, I'm pretty damn happy with my 1st start-to-finish 3D printing project. I think the design translated well to the phyiscal world and fit the hand fairly well. Surface prep and painting didn't take too terribly long. However there are a few things I would do differently if I were to make another one of these knives:
- Model the parts so that they more readily fit together, as the way I have it now, they merely sit against each other. Thus I had to drill and pin the parts together in conjunction with glueing, which isn't terrible, but made proper alignment a bit tougher in the glueing stage.
- Model in additional and more pronounced scratching and dents. The filling and sanding stage really destroyed a lot of the finer detail found in the original model. Of course the fact that this as a FDM print in the 1st place eliminated some of the detail, right off the bat.
- Instead of using rattle cans, I would decant and airbrush. I found that the thick application of the spray paint, further masked detail.
- I need to find a better means of sealing my models. The stuff I'm using now is more of a craft quality fix spray. An epoxy coat of some sort? I would also not seal the vinyl, which for some reason is still sticky.
- I will keep all Christmas wrapping paper that utilizes gitter away from anything that is remotely sticky as I now have a (albeit sparsely) glittered Dwarven/Pirate knife in my possession.
Thanks for reading and comments are more than welcome!